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Wind Power Systems / Wind Turbines Wind Power is the conversion of wind energy into a useful form, such as electricity, using wind turbines.

This is my plan.....input wanted

Wind Power is the conversion of wind energy into a useful form, such as electricity, using wind turbines.

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Old 03-04-2010, 07:41 AM
JepCheroke JepCheroke is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: ICT
Posts: 3
Default This is my plan.....input wanted

I am new to this & have done some research & I think I have my system laid out. I am planning on making a wind system using a squirel cage style "turbine". Standard fan styles wont' work due to low wind speeds. I am either going to build or buy a permanent magnet alternator from windbluepower. For storage, I read somewhere that forklift batterieswork great due to the deep-cycle storage capacity. I am looking at adding a sub-panel to my exsisting breaker box and using 120v, 2500/5000 watt, stackable inverters for power - [link removed by myocardia]
Here is my list of questions:
1. Have I missed anything?
2. The inverters are semi-pure sine wave - will they cause issues with electronics or will I need to get a pure-sine inverter? Will the battery back-ups on my computers be fine instead?
3. I plan on moving my whole house off-grid, how would I go about hooking up 220v for my a/c, stove etc?
4. Would regular inverters be damage by stacking or do I need to stick with those?

I do realize that these are not grid-tie inverters and that I would have to bypass the system. I plan on doing this in stages which is why I am looking at the stackable inverters. I estimate that I will need about 12-15000watts continous to run my whole house and garage without taxing the system. Am I being ambitious or is this realistic?


Last edited by myocardia; 03-04-2010 at 02:56 PM.
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Old 03-05-2010, 01:58 AM
JepCheroke JepCheroke is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: ICT
Posts: 3
Default Re: This is my plan.....input wanted

Well, now that you have made me aware of things I didn't know. Soooo, scratch the forklift batteries - didn't know they were that big and had no clue that they would run that much. I used the 12-15k figure based on rought calculations, but that was also adding my 220v stuff also. I went to my power companys website and got useage figures for 13months....394 days witha average usage of 43kwh, highest being mid-june to mid-july @ 75kwh. So with those new numbers in mind, I would only be needing about a 4-5000 watt continous inverter, correct? I say that high because I have a small air compressor and welder that I use.

Which would be better to build, a 12v or 24v supply system?
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Old 03-05-2010, 03:38 PM
JepCheroke JepCheroke is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: ICT
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Default Re: This is my plan.....input wanted

Well, just due to weight, forklift batteries are out. I will go with golf cart batteries - much more feasible.

As far as usage goes, my house was built in 1920 so it is not very air-tight, poorly insulated and the a/c and 30yr+ heater run alot (working on air-tight and insulation also). I don't use the arc welder much but I want to factor that in too.

I think I may just be trying to jump into this too fast - should take this in stages. So let's go with baby-steps. If I am averageing 43kwh per day, that includes all 220v items, which we will not worry about at this time, a 4000w inverter should cover most of my power needs, correct?

If we are to assume these are facts, how much power production would I be needing? I have also done some more research into inverters, have you heard/had experience with Sunforce, Cotek, Xantrex?

I only have about $2000 that I can spend to start doing this so I can't spend $1500 on just the inverter at this time. If a 4000w system is unrealistic on this budget, I would be willing to scale back more but I want to get this started and getting started is always the hardest part.
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Old 04-20-2010, 12:14 AM
ChronicTom ChronicTom is offline
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: On 40 acres in beautiful Northern Ontario
Posts: 41
Default Re: This is my plan.....input wanted

Just a further note about the plastic films for windows.

We have some old single pane windows, in crappy frames that were mounted in a really crappy manner...

The best solution would be to replace them all, but seems thats not an option, I fixed them.

First, I caulked every single seam there was, both inside and outside. One of the windows is a double sash ones. I took the bottom one out and caulked around the top one, and where the bottom one went, put it back, caulked around it, put the trim/guide back making sure there was enough caulk to seal it all along it. Then I caulked all around the frame itself to the wall boards and to the siding on the outside.

The film... first off, make sure the window is clean, and it is best to do it on a low humidity day.
Secondly, make sure the surface you are putting it on is clean and free of flaky paint. If applying it to rough wood, it really is best to sand a smooth path for the tape to stick to.

After sticking the tape down, and the film to the tape, use a piece of cloth, (a sock works well) and using your thumb (or the round end of a screwdriver handle), rub as firmly as you can back and forth around the tape to make sure it sticks.

Also, when you go to shrink it, I find it works best to start in one corner and do a straight path across to the opposite corner (diagonally), and then jump across and do the same with the other corners. Then do the top and bottom triangles, and then the sides.

Now, as to the film on the windows themself. Use a layer of it to turn the sash into a double pane unit. Make sure there is an airgap between the film and the glass, it is that air gap that does the insulating, not the film.

Then depending on the way your window is, either move out to the next step in the frame, or if there isn't one, add a small 1/2 to 3/4 inch square trim or other wood around the window, sealing it to the frame with caulk. Then add another layer of film to that.

You now have a triple pane window... sorta... lol You lose a little bit of clarity, but surprisingly little.

If the window is more for light then actually looking through, you can add other layers, just make sure there is a gap of between 1/2 and 3/4 inch.

You can also do a layer that is taped right to the walls itself to help block any airleaks around the frames.

The biggest thing is that gap though... If it's too small, there just isn't enough air to provide a barrier, if it's too large, it will start an airflow cycle up inside it, pretty much negating the insulating factor.

That film can also be used to cover receptacles and such if there are air leaks you can't fix right away for whatever reason.
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Old 05-06-2010, 03:28 AM
aom-sg aom-sg is offline
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 4
Default Re: This is my plan.....input wanted

heard from the Philippines, they are planning to have a reserve energy. hope this idea will extend to scientist over to them.
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