the rhino bike..

myocardia · #31 09-03-2009, 12:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deacon

If I run a 600 watt motor with a 350 controller will it burn the controller up.

A 24V 350 watt controller will only allow the amount of amperage to make it to the motor that equals 350 watts, around 12-12.5 amperes. A fully charged 24V battery pack is roughly 28V, and 28V x 12.5A= 350 watts. Note that the amount of current that the controller passes along to the motor is dependent upon the voltage that the controller was rated at. In the above example, if the controller was rated @ 24V instead of 28V, then it would allow 14.5-15A to reach the motor @ full throttle.

deacon · #32 09-03-2009, 11:09 AM

thanis,

I have decided to go back to the 24v and I have a spare 500 watt controller I just bought. If all else fails, I will get hold of a heavy duty switch. As a matter of fact I saw one in the shop somewhere. Thanks again.

I was thinking about my past experiments and I realized that the rhino bike pulls less amps than the PAT, using the same motor battery combo. I remember when I tried to take the pat to 36v it blew fuses left and right. The rhino does not blow them at all. I'm not sure why but it is a fact for me anyway. Might have to do with the skip factor of the Rhino when it gets to a tough hill. I might need to keep that in mind when I set the tension on the wheel.

deacon · #33 09-06-2009, 04:36 PM

Funny but somehow it all came together with my last modification of the rhino bike last night.

Here are the things that make this bike perfect for me. There is nothing left to change.

1. It is a 20" step through frame. (easy for an old man with brain damage to mount.)

2' It has a coaster rear brake that finally works as it should (explanation later)

3. It has a front suspension fork from 24inch bike. (adds a little height to the front end so I don have to be bent forward. I can ride sitting straight up and it absorbs some of the road shock)

4. It has a 20" wheel in that 24" fork. (The bike is still pretty level in load so it doesn't lift the front too much.)

5. It has the rhino drive (my own invention rofl) (so the rear wheel has drag no front brake is needed. With the motor off in a few yards I could just foot drag it to a stop in case of chain brake.)

6. The rhino drive is fixed in place so the tension is controlled by air pressure. (I can deflate the tire completely in case of breakdown)

7. The rhino drive is powered by a 900 watt 36v power plant. It will pull even the worst hill with little or no help.

8. The bike has the short crank of a 20" bike which makes pedaling easy.

9. It has a 48 or 52 tooth chain ring (It allows me to pedal with the motor engaged almost at any speed and it also makes the coaster brakes work ten times better)

10. It has slightly taller BMX style handlebars (To keep them off my knees as I pedal)

11. The rhino drive was cheap and easy to build.

12. The batteries ride on a trailer. (That makes the bike lighter and easier to get in and out of the shop)

13. The batteries are inside a plastic took box ( I can remove it from the trailer for charging or storing the bike)

14. The trailer can be lifted (I can raise it and hook it in a lifted position so that I can roll the bike around without taking the trailer off and on every time.

I think that's about it. The last thing I did was putting on the larger chain ring. (It made a great improvement in the human element in the hybrid system. It also made the brake work ten times better)

Okay I COULD TAKE IT APART AND PAINT THE FRAME OTHERWISE IT IS PERFECT.

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