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  #21  
Old 08-26-2009, 09:15 PM
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Default Re: the rhino bike..

The direct drive works but the performance was not what it should have been. I think the plastic wheel is the killer. It really needs that big clunky rhino wheel. It had a pretty good speed but no torque to amount to anything. I have taken it apart for now but I don't know just yet I might go back to it tomorrow.
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  #22  
Old 08-26-2009, 10:08 PM
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Default Re: the rhino bike..

Deacon, have you ever tried building a direct drive system, like the ICE-based systems use? Since you're able to weld, suspending the motor over the rear tire shouldn't be too hard, then you could just run a longer chain down the left side of the wheel to the 44 tooth sprocket (or 40, or 36, or whatever size sprocket you decide to use). That's what I would do, if I were you. Too bad I don't own a welder, and wouldn't know how to use one if I did own one.
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  #23  
Old 08-27-2009, 03:10 PM
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Default Re: the rhino bike..

I own one but that doesn't mean I know how to use it properly.. Speaking of welders I think I have learned a lesson about buys rods in an open box. I have a whole box that won't seem to continue burning. I think that sitting around in the open box allowed the humidity to make them damp or something. My wife is doing volunteer work a the museum today so I might try baking them.
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  #24  
Old 08-28-2009, 12:00 AM
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Default Re: the rhino bike..

Yeah, baking them at a low temp for a few hours would dry them out. Just make sure you have them out of "her" oven before she gets back home, or you'll be sleeping in the dog house for a few nights!
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On this site, 99.999% of all underlined words are links.

A watt saved is better than a watt generated, since it always costs less than 10% as much, and can cost as little as 1%.

V=volt, A=ampere, Ah=ampere hour, Wh= watt hour, VOC=open circuit voltage, ISC=short circuit current, VMPP=voltage @ max power, IMPP=current @ max power, BTW=by the way, your=belongs to you, you're=you are, too=in addition to, two=1+1, to=towards
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  #25  
Old 08-28-2009, 03:26 AM
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Default Re: the rhino bike..

the mfg says not to dry the ones I have oh well.
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  #26  
Old 08-28-2009, 03:29 AM
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Default Re: the rhino bike..

I am giving some thought to building a rhino bike with 900 watt motor on a 16" wheel. I know it will fly but im not sure I have the nerve to ride it. I barely have the nerve to ride this one.
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  #27  
Old 08-31-2009, 07:38 PM
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Default Re: the rhino bike..

Something occurred to me today while I was drinking coffee. If I mount the rhino top wheel when it is low on air and let the weight of the motor hold it down, then I can lock it in place without any adjustments at all. This will make the bike much more rigid and make it more stable.

I can control the tension on the rear bike tire by simply inflating or deflating the tire.
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Last edited by deacon; 09-01-2009 at 02:50 PM.
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  #28  
Old 09-01-2009, 02:02 AM
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Default Re: the rhino bike..

That's an awesome idea, deacon. It may effect your range, though, because of increased friction. Try it, and let us know how it works. Hopefully it won't effect the range at all.
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On this site, 99.999% of all underlined words are links.

A watt saved is better than a watt generated, since it always costs less than 10% as much, and can cost as little as 1%.

V=volt, A=ampere, Ah=ampere hour, Wh= watt hour, VOC=open circuit voltage, ISC=short circuit current, VMPP=voltage @ max power, IMPP=current @ max power, BTW=by the way, your=belongs to you, you're=you are, too=in addition to, two=1+1, to=towards
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  #29  
Old 09-01-2009, 02:48 PM
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Default Re: the rhino bike..

well I plan to pump air back into it after I get it locked in place. That would lift it some of the rubber off the tire and increase the tension some. Still you might have the answer to my strange range fluctuations. I have had various tire pressures on that wheel. before I lock it down I will have to figure out the best pressure for that as well.
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  #30  
Old 09-02-2009, 06:19 PM
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Default Re: the rhino bike..

I have been running the rhino bikes at 36v but I have a problem with the 500 watt motor. It actually has a sound which makes me think I burned up a bearing. I don't think that was caused by over volting alone but I believe it might have added to it. I ran the bike a few times with the chain too tight. I believe the binding of the chain along with the extra voltage to pull the motor even when it might otherwise have just shut down probably burned a bearing in the motor.

Even with the chain slack it has a rhythmic grinding sound. I can't hear it unless the motor is engaged, I think since that is the case, I will try the new motors I just bought with 24 volts instead of 36.

I do have a question. If I run a 600 watt motor with a 350 controller will it burn the controller up.
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