So, you really are an engineer, and just didn't want to tell us, huh? Speaking of building character, my grandfather used to always say, "If it doesn't kill you, it makes you stronger", to which I would always think, "Yeah, but what about the times when it successfully kills you?"

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On this site, 99.999% of all underlined words are links.

A watt saved is better than a watt generated, since it always costs less than 10% as much, and can cost as little as 1%.

V=volt, A=ampere, Ah=ampere hour, Wh= watt hour, VOC=open circuit voltage, ISC=short circuit current, VMPP=voltage @ max power, IMPP=current @ max power, BTW=by the way, your=belongs to you, you're=you are, too=in addition to, two=1+1, to=towards

I think this might be the one to test my sanity as well as my character. I tried to break and shorten a #25 chain after an hour in a sweat shop environment I gave up and put in a master link.

I didn't take any pictures I was too busy trying to get something done before dark. I managed to get the motor frame built and set it on the bike for a test fit. I had to make an extension for the frame to bike mount. The laid back seat post is in the way. I will have it mounted by noon tomorrow if it harelips Atlanta. I am dying to see what that big motor does on a rhino with 36v of power. It should be awesome and still legally a bicycle.

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politically incorrect blog:http://deaconcomments.blogspot.com/

On the road novel with my ebike...
http://frictiondrivebicycles.blogspot.com/

Deacon, I meant to tell you this yesterday, but forgot. If you keep having problems with fuses blowing, you should get an AGU fuse holder and 60A AGU fuse, instead of giving up on the 36V idea. A 60A fuse would also allow you to run your 500 watt motor overvolted to 36V. The 500 watt motor running @ 36V is drawing 750 watts worth of power from the batteries, and is likely pulling fairly close to 60A of current.

__________________
On this site, 99.999% of all underlined words are links.

A watt saved is better than a watt generated, since it always costs less than 10% as much, and can cost as little as 1%.

V=volt, A=ampere, Ah=ampere hour, Wh= watt hour, VOC=open circuit voltage, ISC=short circuit current, VMPP=voltage @ max power, IMPP=current @ max power, BTW=by the way, your=belongs to you, you're=you are, too=in addition to, two=1+1, to=towards

I got it running today with no fuse blown. I think the friction drive allows it to skip when under the most stress. That cuts down on the max amp pull, I think. But you are right I had been thinking 60amp fuse if it blew them.

here are the pics of the Rhino 2 the second story so to speak.

http://i29.tinypic.com/21odbvr.jpg
http://i29.tinypic.com/rtor5k.jpg
http://i26.tinypic.com/m7s1f7.jpg
http://i30.tinypic.com/14lnf4y.jpg
http://i29.tinypic.com/2rm8iz8.jpg
http://i27.tinypic.com/wu07jd.jpg

I'm pretty sure I am going to seriously love this bike. It climbs moderate hills while GAINING speed. It climbs slightly higher hills with hardly any loss of speed. Long hills are no problem for this bike. I just pedal before I kick the motor in to cut down on the current spike as much as possible other wise it just runs. I will have to get a speedometer to check out the speed of the bike.

This bike is fairly comfortable now. I had to move a few things to get them out of the ay but that is all done now. I think it is going to have a good range as well. I will keep the 350 watt to ride to the park since that isn't too far or too steep. It does have a higher potential for bike theft so I'll take the less desirable bike. It looks the same so people will get used to seeing it around and think they are the same bike anyway.;

Since they only let you post three I think I just gave you links.

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politically incorrect blog:http://deaconcomments.blogspot.com/

On the road novel with my ebike...
http://frictiondrivebicycles.blogspot.com/

I like this version much better. Now the scooter wheel isn't inches from your butt, it's actually underneath you, making it much safer. I think you're going to like this one. Assuming those are three 12aH batteries, I'm gonna guess a 10 mile range @ 50% SOC (state of charge). Wal Mart sells bicycle speedometers for $10-15, and they even have odometers, but I guess you already knew that.

__________________
On this site, 99.999% of all underlined words are links.

A watt saved is better than a watt generated, since it always costs less than 10% as much, and can cost as little as 1%.

V=volt, A=ampere, Ah=ampere hour, Wh= watt hour, VOC=open circuit voltage, ISC=short circuit current, VMPP=voltage @ max power, IMPP=current @ max power, BTW=by the way, your=belongs to you, you're=you are, too=in addition to, two=1+1, to=towards

yeah but my next purchase at wally-mart has to be a third battery tender. I charge each battery with it's own tender/charger. I have two for the 24v pack. I will just add one more.

I might get a speedo from Ebay. If I do that, my wife won't know lol..

The range is going to be hard to calculate till I just do it. They tell me the place to stop it is 11.75 volts per cell.. So in theory that gives me 1.5 effective volts per cell or 4.5 per pack... A mile of test track is .3 volts consumption.I figure max at about 15miles on the 12 ah batteries on it.

I have to be careful because the bike will operated reasonably effectively at even lower than 11.75 per cell. Because it is a 24v controller. In an emergency I could get a few more miles out of it. In the case of running it at 24volts as the starting pack when it went to the 11.75 it was already ineffective. But it actually runs pretty good at 24v so I could in effect flat line the batteries without realizing it. At least in theory,,,

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politically incorrect blog:http://deaconcomments.blogspot.com/

On the road novel with my ebike...
http://frictiondrivebicycles.blogspot.com/

When I started with motorized bikes I built a china kit fume spewing gasoline bike. Then I built a dozen weed whacker and chainsaw bikes. Finally I turned my attention to Ebikes. I had very modest expectations. My goals was a bike that would do 10mph, climb most hills with minimum of assistance, go at least 10 miles per charge, be easy to replicate and easy to ride and maintain.

The Rhino bikes came after a lot of failed experiments. The Pat series were powerful and dependable but hard to replicate for the average builder... Hard to ride due to the drag effect on turns. Also the direct to the ground wheel made them a nightmare on fuses.

All the Rhino bike is really, is a pusher with the wheel on top of the rear tire. The Rhino bikes I have now will do the ten miles and hour, the range is ten miles with the 36v pack. They are easy to build and maintain... they are also extremely easy to ride. I think you could put the Rhino motor on any bike at all. The rear brake might be an issue but shouldn't be hard to work out on a mountain bike.

So my ebike experiment is over. I will probably work on trailers for a while. I would like a lighter weight easier to move around trailer. Otherwise I am satisfied with these bikes. That being the case I need to look for something else to play with for a while.

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politically incorrect blog:http://deaconcomments.blogspot.com/

On the road novel with my ebike...
http://frictiondrivebicycles.blogspot.com/

Have you considered something that you and the wife could ride in? Or how about a more than 4-stroke engine? We await your step-by-step guide to either, in the near future.

__________________
On this site, 99.999% of all underlined words are links.

A watt saved is better than a watt generated, since it always costs less than 10% as much, and can cost as little as 1%.

V=volt, A=ampere, Ah=ampere hour, Wh= watt hour, VOC=open circuit voltage, ISC=short circuit current, VMPP=voltage @ max power, IMPP=current @ max power, BTW=by the way, your=belongs to you, you're=you are, too=in addition to, two=1+1, to=towards

I think I'm going to work on a trailer next. The best trailers I have for my batteries use scooter wheels. They cost me about twenty bucks each. I checked today at the thrift store and I can buy a kids 12 1/2 bike for between 5 & 7 bucks. Those wheels would make a pretty good trailer I think. I might need a better design since im not sure about the axle sizes if they are the same or now.

I have a design to use the axles rather than a single axle but it is more trouble to use and store. I will have to take a look at what I can do. I can probably do a split axle for them.

__________________
politically incorrect blog:http://deaconcomments.blogspot.com/

On the road novel with my ebike...
http://frictiondrivebicycles.blogspot.com/

Seems I was too optimistic. I spent the day working on the rhino bike since I had a frame support come apart for lack of a double nut I suppose. that caused the motor to twist and throw the chain about a dozen times before I could get it home and fix it.

I had already decided there was no practical advantage to having the 350 watt motor since it uses the same amount of energy as the 500 watt. Why I have no idea, but it does. So I decided to use the 350 watt motor to build a direct drive friction drive to see what would happen. I am using a much larger wheel than I have ever used before (6inch lawn mower I had left from the failed experiment last week) and a 36v power supply. So tomorrow it should be ready to test.

I am just throwing it together so If it works I will have to go back and rebuild it to make it solid.
Right now I just wonder what kind of torque and speed it will get. After I find out I will probably be looking on ebay for a larger motor for the rhino.

__________________
politically incorrect blog:http://deaconcomments.blogspot.com/

On the road novel with my ebike...
http://frictiondrivebicycles.blogspot.com/