What I think I have learned. It will increase your performance greatly, but will do nothing for your range.

Now that is not from any book so don't carve it in stone, but from today's real world test, that is my opinion. But I could be wrong...

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politically incorrect blog:http://deaconcomments.blogspot.com/

On the road novel with my ebike...
http://frictiondrivebicycles.blogspot.com/

Haha, yeah that's how it works, Deacon. Higher voltage (adding batteries in series) gives you faster acceleration and higher top speed. For more range, you have to add more batteries in parallel. That means you have to double your batteries, with all of the new ones in parallel (positive to positive, and negative to negative).

Of course, you can also just use larger batteries. You might want to check into what are called "half U1" sized batteries. It's what a lot of electric wheelchairs use. As you can see from this link, they are 18aH each, so you'd get 50% more distance with the same amount of batteries.

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On this site, 99.999% of all underlined words are links.

A watt saved is better than a watt generated, since it always costs less than 10% as much, and can cost as little as 1%.

V=volt, A=ampere, Ah=ampere hour, Wh= watt hour, VOC=open circuit voltage, ISC=short circuit current, VMPP=voltage @ max power, IMPP=current @ max power, BTW=by the way, your=belongs to you, you're=you are, too=in addition to, two=1+1, to=towards

a new question just came up.

I am running a 600 watt motor on a 500 watt controller and it does really well. So I just built a new bike and put the same motor on a 350 watt controller. I expected it to get hot and blow up but it didn't what it does is runs the motor as if it were 350 watts.

Question is this normal. If so I will need a new controller and I have one in a box waiting to be used. It is 500 watt 24v but I'll be running it at 36v. It was a really cheap controller so Im not expecting much. I probably should get the right size next. I wonder what size I should get to run a 600 watt 24v motor at 36volts.

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politically incorrect blog:http://deaconcomments.blogspot.com/

On the road novel with my ebike...
http://frictiondrivebicycles.blogspot.com/

Deacon, a controller that's working correctly works exactly like a tap on a faucet works. It only lets a certain amount of current through, the same way that a faucet only lets a certain amount of water pass through. They don't limit the watts though, they limit the amount of amperage they allow through. So a 350 watt @ 24V controller will allow up to ~12.5 amperes to reach the motor. If you run it at 36V, it will allow the same amperage, or ~525 watts.

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On this site, 99.999% of all underlined words are links.

A watt saved is better than a watt generated, since it always costs less than 10% as much, and can cost as little as 1%.

V=volt, A=ampere, Ah=ampere hour, Wh= watt hour, VOC=open circuit voltage, ISC=short circuit current, VMPP=voltage @ max power, IMPP=current @ max power, BTW=by the way, your=belongs to you, you're=you are, too=in addition to, two=1+1, to=towards

I experimented with the 350 watt controller before I changed to the cheapo 500 which melted instantly. It did indeed run like a 350 watt motor running at 36v which is a confusing was saying exactly what you said.

I have a 36v 800 watt one on the way now. It should be just about right for the setup I'm running. It's max amp is 40 and the motor max draw is 36 so it should be safe as well.

I took the bike with the 24v 500watt heavy duty controller out today twice. I found that it will go through the power if you run it wot up a steep hill but if you run it enough to keep up with the pedals you turn with your body, it will not run low on power at all. It is after all a bicycle with an electric motor not an electric motorcycle.

Actually I liked the pedal assist speeds they were fast enough and I got a little exercise with it.

__________________
politically incorrect blog:http://deaconcomments.blogspot.com/

On the road novel with my ebike...
http://frictiondrivebicycles.blogspot.com/